Friday, September 6, 2019
How did war world 1 impact women Essay Example for Free
How did war world 1 impact women Essay There are all types of information including lesson plans, articles and news. BBC origin is a British Broadcasting Corporation. Established in 1922,London. The founders of BBC are John Reith and George Villers. BBC purpose is to ââ¬Å"enrich peopleà ¼s lives with programs and services that inform, educate and entertain.â⬠The values of the source are that it has beneï ¬ ts of hindsight; this is because they wrote this a long time after the event, which makes them less likely to have strong emotions that will make them biased. The source was written long after the event, so it has a greater ability to see turning points/ key events. This source has credibility, because it was written by academic authority. The limitation of the source is that it is not ï ¬ rst hand, meaning that facts could be changed or interpreted differently over time. This source might be biased because it is British. It might take their side. In my opinion overall BBC is a trustworthy source. Notes Beyond Domestic Services: -WWI changed the role of women politically and economically. -WWI gave women bigger opportunities in paying jobs. -Around two million women took over menà ¼s jobs The War left women with a a wide range of jobs that were not available to them before and different jobs opportunities in different ï ¬ elds ââ¬Å"The war revolutionised the industrial position of women it found them serfs and left them free.â⬠Said the founder of Cambridge College in 1918 The war changed womens roles in factories. It gave women job opportunities which was not available before. Summary: WW1 affected women in the home front because it gave women an opportunity to prove themselves in a male role, doing more than house work and caring for their family. How did war world 1 impact women at the home front during the war? Sources Book: The us borne introduction to ï ¬ rst war world (December,6,12) O.P.V.L ââ¬Å"The Usborne Introduction to ï ¬ rst World Warâ⬠book is a reliable source because it is a book which provides detailed information and published works of the ï ¬ rst world war. The origin is Great Britain, published in 2007. The authors of the book are Ruth Brocklehurst and Henry Brook. The purpose ofà the book is to ââ¬Å"provide a fascinating and detailed introduction to the First World War. It also includes a selection of recommended websites to take readers even further, with ï ¬ lm footage, photographs and eyewitness accounts.â⬠The value of the source is hindsight; this is because they wrote this a long time after the event, which makes them less likely to have strong emotions that will make them bias. The source was written long after the event, it has a grater ability to see turning points/ key eve nt. This source has credibility, because it was written by academic authority. The source is published, meaning that it was checked for accuracy many times. The limitation of the source is that the source is not ï ¬ rst hand, meaning that facts could be changed or interpreted differently over time. This source might be biased, because it is a british book. In conclusion this is a reliable source because it is a published book. Even though it may be biased it has facts that need to be edited. Notes Women into work -Before the war, jobs were available to to women, but they were limited (e.g. domestic work). -Before the war most were expected to watch over their family -In beginning of war, women were mostly involved in in charity work (e.g. making bandages and socks to send to the soldiers). -The war created many new jobs, keeping the soldiers supplied with basic needs. -Government used many posters to persuade women of all ages and classes to help out in the war and factories. -Millions of women helped out -Women operated telephones exchange, drove busses, worked agriculture and even worked dangerous, heavy jobs (e.g. mining, shipbuilding and packing explosives shells.) Summary WW1 affected women in the home front because women replaced men jobs, they helped in any area they could, from sending the soldiers basic needs to working dangerous jobs. How did war world 1 impact women at the home front during the war? Sources http://www.nls.uk/ learning-zone/history/ themes-in-focus/womenin-the-great-war (december 7,12) O.P.V.L NlS (national library of Scotland) is a reliable source because it is a library with information for educators and others. NIS origin is a library established in 1880s in Britain. NIS is a government funded organization. NIS purpose is to give educators and others a verity of resources and information. The values of the source is, The source has beneï ¬ ts of hindsight; this is because theyà wrote this a long time after the event, which makes them less likely to have strong emotions that will make them biased. The source was written long after the event, it has a grater ability to see turning points/ key event. This source has credibility, because it was written by academic authority. The limitation of the source is that it is not ï ¬ rst hand, meaning that facts could be changed or interpreted differently over time. This source might be bias, because it is a british government funded organization, the government might want good things to be said. In my option overall TIS is a trustworthy source because it is government funded, meaning information is checked. Notes Women at work -During the ï ¬ rst year of the war, there was a lot of unemployment. -Women now took over menà ¼s jobs. -Even though women enjoyed working and earning money on their own, life for them was not easy. -Women worked long hours, plus they had to care for their children Summary: WW1 affected women in the home front because it changed the role of women, it changed the daily lives of women, and how the society looked at womenà ¼s roles in general. How did war world 1 impact women at the home front during the war? Sources http:// www.nationalarchives.go v.uk/education/ homefront/women/ factories/default.htm (December,11,12) O.P.V.L The National Archives, is a reliable source because it is a source which provides detailed information and reliable government sources. The origin is Great Britain, published in 2006. The purpose of the source is to ââ¬Å"Provide many resources and documents for members of the public as well as professionals.â⬠The value of the source is hindsight; this is because they wrote this a long time after the event, which makes them less likely to have strong emotions that will make them biased. The source was written long after the event, it has a greater ability to see turning points/ key event. This source has credibility because it was written by academic authority (government library). The source is published, meaning that it was checked for accuracy many times. The limitation of the source is that the source is not ï ¬ rst hand meaning that facts could be changed or interpreted differently over time. This source might be bias, because it is a british online library, the sources in the library might take sides. Overall this source is reliable because it has a wide range of government supported sources. Notes -Although women workedà in factories before. There was a big increases when the war started. -When men were called to the home front women were there to replace them. -Women did many different kinds of work. -they worked in the chemical and explosive industry,made shells and bombs, electrical cable and wire, uniforms, clothing etc.. -Around 7 million women were employed during the war. -Many women never worked before and had to learn how to cope with it all. (e.x. coping with working and taking care of their family) -Some had to travel far to work. -Some had to work part time so they could look after their children. -Some work for women was dangerous and risky. Summary: WW1 affected women in the home front because it gave women a change to showed a different side of women (e.g. how they are able to work and balance life.) Reï ¬âection on action plan: I thought I did a overall good job on my reï ¬âection plan. I thought I organized my reï ¬âection plan well. I like how I colored coded the plan and added check boxes next to the task. This helped me to stay organized and to see my progress. I thought overall I did a good job with keeping up with my reï ¬âection plan. Except for 2 days where I did not complete the OPVl. But ended up completing them the next couple of days. I think the action plan did help me with this task. It kept me organized and on task.
Reading Skills Essay Example for Free
Reading Skills Essay Reading daily, Reading deeply, Reading widely are the few important skills of reading from which we can enhance our understanding of passage, ameliorate our vocabulary, correct our grammatical mistakes, increase our thinking capacity and helps in improving or learning any part of a language. The more you read the one thing you realize the key to doing well in the examination, and the key to perform or present any task in a well equipped way. There are many techniques used in reading to get and understand whole idea or summary of the passage to improve reading. But few important skills of reading are given below to improve reading. 1. Styles of reading 2. Active reading 3. A tip for speeding up your active reading 4. Spotting authors navigation aids 5. Words and vocabulary [pic]1. Styles of reading There are three styles of reading which we use in different situations: Scanning: Scanning is what you do to find an answer to a specific question. You may run your eyes quickly down the page in a zigzag or winding S pattern. If you are looking for a name, you note capital letters. For a date, you look for numbers. Vocabulary words may be boldfaced or italicized. When you scan for information, you read only what is needed. Its useful to scan parts of texts to see if theyre going to be useful to you: â⬠¢ the introduction or preface of a book â⬠¢ the first or last paragraphs of chapters â⬠¢ the concluding chapter of a book. Skimming: for getting the gist of something Skimming is covering the chapter to get some of the main ideas and a general overview of the material. It is what you do first when reading a chapter assignment. You donââ¬â¢t read for details at this point. Here is how you skim a chapter: . To preview a passage before you read it in detail à · Read the first paragraph of the chapter line by line. à · Next, read all the bold print headings starting at the beginning. à · Read the first sentence of every paragraph. à · Study any pictures, graphs, charts, and maps. à · Finally, read the last paragraph of the chapter. As you skim, you could write down the main ideas and develop a chapter outline. Detailed reading: for extracting information accurately Where you read every word, and work to learn from the text. In this careful reading, you may find it helpful to skim first, to get a general idea, but then go back to read in detail. Use a dictionary to make sure you understand all the words used. [pic]2. Active reading When youre reading for your course, you need to make sure youre actively involved with the text. Its a waste of your time to just passively read, the way youd read a thriller on holiday. Always make notes to keep up your concentration and understanding. Here are four tips for active reading. Underlining and highlighting Pick out what you think are the most important parts of what you are reading. Do this with your own copy of texts or on photocopies, not with borrowed books. If you are a visual learner, youll find it helpful to use different colours to highlight different aspects of what youre reading. Note key words Record the main headings as you read. Use one or two keywords for each point. When you dont want to mark the text, keep a folder of notes you make while reading. Questions Before you start reading something like an article, a chapter or a whole book, prepare for your reading by noting down questions you want the material to answer. While youre reading, note down questions which the author raises. Summaries Pause after youve read a section of text. Then: 1. put what youve read into your own words; 2. skim through the text and check how accurate your summary is and 3.fill in any gaps. [pic]3. A tip for speeding up your active reading You should learn a huge amount from your reading. If you read passively, without learning, youre wasting your time. So train your mind to learn. Try the SQ3R technique. First developed by researchers at Ohio State University, SQ3R is a useful technique for absorbing written information. It helps you to create a good mental framework of a subject, into which you can fit the right facts. It helps you to set study goals and prompts you to use the review techniques that will help you to remember. The acronym SQ3R stands for the five sequential techniques you should use to read a book: Survey, Question, Read, Recite and Review. Survey Gather the information you need to focus on the work and set goals: â⬠¢ Read the title to help prepare for the subject â⬠¢ Read the introduction or summary to see what the author thinks are the key points â⬠¢ Notice the boldface headings to see what the structure is â⬠¢ Notice any maps, graphs or charts. They are there for a purpose â⬠¢ Notice the reading aids, italics, bold face, questions at the end of the chapter. They are all there to help you understand and remember. Questionà Help your mind to engage and concentrate. Your mind is engaged in learning when it is actively looking for answers to questions. Make questions that can be answered during the reading of the material. This will give a purpose to your reading. Take a heading and turn it into a question. For example, if a heading in a chapter about Cell Division is in your biology text, make a question by turning the title around: ââ¬Å"How does cell division occur? â⬠or ââ¬Å"How many steps are involved in cell division? â⬠Read Read the first section with your questions in mind. Now you read the material trying to find answers to your questions. This is a careful reading, line by line. You may want to take notes or make flashcards. Recall As you read, look away from your book and notes and try to answer your questions. This checks your learning and helps put that information in your memory. After each section, stop and think back to your questions. See if you can answer them from memory. If not, take a look back at the text. Do this as often as you need to.. Review To check your memory, scan portions of the material or your notes to verify your answers. Review the material and note the main points under each heading. This review step helps you retain the material. The SQ3R method is just one technique that can be used to retain information you collect while reading. Students learn in different ways. Therefore they should be aware of their learning styles. Knowing whether you are an Auditory (learn by hearing), Visual (learn by seeing) or Kinesthetic (hands-on) learner helps you to understand your best learning environment. The SQ3R technique of reading can help to enhance your reading skills no matter what your style is. [pic]4. Spotting authors navigation aids Learn to recognize sequence signals, for example: Three advantages of or A number of methods are available leads you to expect several points to follow. The first sentence of a paragraph will often indicate a sequence:â⬠One important cause of followed by Another important factor and so on, until The final cause of General points are often illustrated by particular examples, for example: General: Birds beaks are appropriately shaped for feeding. Particular: Sparrows and other seed-eating birds have short, stubby beaks; wrens and other insect eaters have thin pointed beaks; herons and other fish hunters have long, sharp beaks for spearing their prey. Whatever you are reading, be aware of the authors background. It is important to recognize the bias given to writing by a writers political, religious, social background. Learn which newspapers and journals represent a particular standpoint [pic]5. Words and vocabulary When youre a graduate people expect you to use a vocabulary which is wider than a school-leavers. To expand your vocabulary: Choose a large dictionary rather than one which is ââ¬Ëcompact or ââ¬Ëconcise. You want one which is big enough to define words clearly and helpfully (around 1,500 pages is a good size). Avoid dictionaries which send you round in circles by just giving synonyms. A pocket dictionary might suggest: ââ¬Ëimpetuous = rash. A more comprehensive dictionary will tell you that impetuous means ââ¬Ërushing with force and violence, while another gives ââ¬Ëliable to act without consideration, and add to your understanding by giving the derivation ââ¬Ë14th century, from late Latin impetuous = violent. It will tell you that rash means ââ¬Ëacting without due consideration or thought, and is derived from Old High German rasc = hurried. So underlying these two similar words is the difference between violence and hurrying. There are over 600,000 words in the Oxford English Dictionary; most of them have different meanings, (only a small proportion is synonyms). Avoid dictionaries which send you round in circles by using very complicated language to define the term youre looking up, leaving you struggling to understand half a dozen new words. Keep your dictionary at hand when youre studying. Look up unfamiliar words and work to understand what they mean. Improve your vocabulary by reading widely. Reading skills in a precis form Comprehensions Reading comprehension is a basic skill that each college student must possess. Believe it or not, reading is a complex, accrued skillââ¬ânot acquired overnight learning to read and comprehend takes practice. Comprehension involves obtaining information from written text. A reader who comprehends a text accurately understands what the writer intended to communicate. She understands the purpose and the main idea. Comprehension cannot be observed directly, but a reader who is able to retell, paraphrase or summarize a text demonstrates comprehension. Interpretation â⬠¢ When a reader interprets a text, he is employing a critical thinking strategy. He uses evidence and clues from the text to draw conclusions and looks for larger or more universal principals in what he has read. Interpretation requires going beyond the initial impression of what he has read to develop a more complex and complete understanding. Analysis â⬠¢ When a reader analyzes the text, she identifies the assumptions of the writer and examines the structure of the argument. She asks questions such as, Does the evidence support the argument? and Does it support the conclusions the writer draws? She is looking for evidence of a logical and/or consistent argument. Synthesis â⬠¢ With synthesis, the skilled reader is able to show how a text develops or builds meaning. He sorts out and reconstructs ideas in a text to point out how they are interrelated. He compares and extends meaning from multiple sources. Evaluation â⬠¢ Evaluation, determining the quality and effectiveness of a text, is the highest level of critical thinking associated with reading, according to Lesley Thompson, Senior Assessment and Accountability Program Associate at the Northwest Regional Education Laboratory. An effective reader evaluates the merit of the text by drawing on her own experience and knowledge and considering whether other sources provide evidence that agrees with or contradicts the writers argument.
Thursday, September 5, 2019
Ethical Dilemma of Elective Induction
Ethical Dilemma of Elective Induction To Induce or Not to Induce? The Ethical Dilemma of Elective Induction Lets paint a picture. A 32-year-old patient gravida 1, para 0 presents at 38 weeks gestation and states that she would like to be induced the following day for personal reasons. She has not previous medical history which indicates that she is a high-risk pregnancy. She is electing to be induced.Ã Labor induction is the use of medications or other methods to stimulate contractions in the uterus to result in vaginal birth before labor has started on its own (). It can be a recommended if either the mother or fetus are at risk but sometimes, labor can be induced for nonmedical reasons and scheduled by the patient. Evidence suggests that there are no benefits to either mother or baby, however, there are several risks associated with inducing labor. These include but are not limited to infection in the mother and/or the baby, uterine rupture, increased risk of cesarean birth and death of the baby (). There has been a dramatic incline in the number of elective induced labors in the United States. Statistics show that there has been an increase in induced labor from 9.4% of births in 1990 to 23.2% in 2009 (). These increased rates can especially be seen among non-Hispanic White women with private or commercial insurance and more than 12 years of education (). While this increase alone is of significant concern, studies show an increase in induced labor during the preterm period, including the late preterm period between 34 through 36 weeks of gestation. This is especially alarming as this could have significant negative impacts on the infants overall development and health (). Our profession calls for dedication to nursing excellence through ethics, standards and best practice. Specifically, labor and delivery nurses as well as midwives are known for providing compassionate care and advocating for women to be actively involved in all aspects of their care. They have the responsibility of playing the delicate role of balancing each individuals right to birth as they desire while at the same time advocating to provide evidence-based practice levels of care and improving maternal and child birth outcomes. Therein lies the ethical conflict: how do you provide care that reflects the birthing parents unique needs (elective induction) while at the same time providing care that does not put birthing parent and/or baby at increased risk for negative outcomes. Some would argue that ethically, the birthing parent has autonomy over her body and should be able to decide the what, where, when and how around all medical procedures. While I do not disagree with this, we cannot risk the chance of violating other ethical values like nonmaleficence and beneficene because of autonomy. It is important that we fall back on the ethical principles and theories that shape our practice as nurses in order to make a decision that is ethically sound. Our primary responsibility and commitment, as stated by the first and second provisions of the ANA code of ethics are that we practice with compassion and respect for the inherent dignity, worth and unique attributes of every person and our primary commitment is to our patient (). This includes providing patients with all the education they need. Research shows that 78% of women who elected to induce labor felt confident that they were knowledgeable about the procedure, however on further inquiry it was found that they in fact were not aware (). I firmly believe that it is our role and duty as nurses to provide care to each individual following the lines of what would make them most comfortable. In the same light, it is our role and duty as nurses to keep up to date on evidence based practice in order to provide up to date information to our patients and advocate for them. We walk the fine ethical line all the time and bear the load of providing the absolute best care to our patients by finding a balance between both patient desires and evidence based practice. We cannot let egoism play a role here by only considering that which is evidence-based care while ignoring the wishes of the birthing parent. However, tapping into the ethical theory of utilitarianism, we must look at all the benefits and risks involved. and together with the people involved make a decision that is best suitable for the birthing mother and baby.
Wednesday, September 4, 2019
Child Labor - Economic Exploitation of Children Essays -- Foreign Dome
Child Labor - Economic Exploitation of Children à à à à à Child labor is a serious problem in many parts of the world, especially in developing countries. It has been linked to many nations and cultures for hundreds of years. Child labor is defined by Article 32 of the Convention on the Rights of the Child: as any economic exploitation or work that is likely to be hazardous or interferes with the childââ¬â¢s education, or is harmful to the childââ¬â¢s health or physical, mental, spiritual, moral, or social development. Labor is defined as a difficult, or fatiguing mental and/or physical work. It wasnââ¬â¢t until the Industrial Revolution that it became the problem it is today. With the arrival of the factory system in the 18th century, during the 1700s, children as young as five were being used as workers in England. During this period, a law called the English Poor Act gave the government the responsibility to care for children that had no parents or whose parents were too poor to care for them. Under this law, the government would take these ââ¬Å"pauper childrenâ⬠and place them in jobs where they could become apprentices and learn a trade. The law was not usually affective because when children were handed over to the factory owners and usually became slaves. This is a violation of the ââ¬Å"Human Rights Document: Universal Declaration of Human Rightsâ⬠in article 4, which states: no one shall be held in slavery or servitude; slavery and the slave trade shall be prohibited in all their forms. Children were used to tend to machines in factories and many worked in the dark, damp coalmines, carrying coal on their backs up ladders. Many children would work 10 to 15 hour days. This is a violation of the ââ¬Å"Human Rights Documentâ⬠in article 24, which states: everyone has the right to rest and leisure, including reasonable limitation of working hours and periodic holidays with pay. They were forced to work in dangerous and unhealthy conditions, and their wages were incredibly small. There are many reasons why these children work; poverty, lack of education, lack of knowledge of oneââ¬â¢s rights, and cultura l tradition are all contributing factors. These children are often deprived and mistreated. They may get beaten or severely punished for making even the slightest mistake. This is another violation of the ââ¬Å"Human Rights Documentâ⬠in article 1, which states: all human beings are bor... ...the child labor; they donââ¬â¢t have any legal power. The trade unions are weak and donââ¬â¢t have the funds to do the job. Over several years the proposed law, now known as the Child Labor Deterrence Act, has been reintroduced along with a companion bill in the House. However, no vote has been taken on the House bill and the proposal was still pending at the beginning of 1998. à à à à à Some U.S. cities are passing laws to ensure that the goods they purchase are not made in foreign or domestic sweatshops. In 1992, the organization established the International Program on the Elimination of Child Labor (IPEC), which has implemented more than 600 action programs in 27 countries. The goal of these programs is to prevent and fight child labor by helping children withdraw from work in selected villages, provide support services for the children and their families, and change community attitudes towards child labor. à à à à à Putting an end to child labor requires changes on many fronts, especially on attitudes about child labor and the worldââ¬â¢s poor. To help bring about changes in attitudes, activists in many countries are raising awareness that child labor violates fundamental human rights. à à à à Ã
Tuesday, September 3, 2019
Barn Burning Essay -- Literary Analysis, William Faulkner
In ââ¬Å"Barn Burning,â⬠the author, William Faulkner, composes a wonderful story about a poor boy who lives in anxiety, despair, and fear. He introduces us to Colonel Satoris Snopes, or Sarty, a boy who is mature beyond his years. Due to the harsh circumstances of life, Sarty must choose between justice and his family. At a tender age of ten, Sarty starts to believe his integrity will help him make the right choices. His loyalty to family doesnââ¬â¢t allow for him to understand why he warns the De Spain family at such a young age. Faulkner describes how the Snopes family is emotionally conflicted due to Abnerââ¬â¢s insecurities, how consequences of a fatherââ¬â¢s actions can change their lives, and how those choices make Sarty begin his coming of age into adulthood. The conflictions of the Snopes family in this story are of anger, fear, and despair. Abner Snopes, the father, is an angry man. He believes that he is always right, he is abusive, and is always being short-changed by life. Even though his wife is impartial to his actions, she looks at him with an ââ¬Å"anxious face at his shoulder,â⬠which describes how weary she is when in the presence of her husband (Faulkner 1961). Sartyââ¬â¢s whole family lives under a blanket of fear and anxiety due to his fatherââ¬â¢s insecurities, and resentment for people who belittle him. Sartyââ¬â¢s older brother is easily impressed, and follows their fatherââ¬â¢s manipulative ways of dysfunction: the brother said ââ¬Å"Better tie him to the bedpostâ⬠(Faulkner 1965). Abner uses manipulations and violence to keep them in a sense of hopelessness and fear, never feeling safe. Sarty is too immature to put his young thoughts into words, thinking ââ¬Å"They are safe from him. People wh ose lives are a part of this peace and dignity are beyond... ...painââ¬â¢s rifle. He cries out for his dead father as a young child would, but makes an adult decision to run away from everything and his family. Sarty ran into the woods for safety. He never knew how long he kept running away from the despair and fear of the choices that he and his father made that day. Little did Sarty recognize that running through that door at the de Spain mansion led to freedom for himself and his family: ââ¬Å"Perhaps, it will take a Sarty Snopes to enter through another front door and, though promptly sent away, learn that he has the capacity and the willingness to make moral decisions that will lead him, not to death, but to lifeâ⬠(Samway 103). Sarty, knowing he would never feel the terror and despair of his father actions again, he chose to grieve, and made an adult decision to move forward to a new beginning in life with his integrity intact.
Monday, September 2, 2019
Weapons of the Middle Ages :: History
Weapons of the Middle Ages Have you ever wondered what kinds of weapons were used in the middle ages? Or have you wondered how they used to slash and bash through the heavily armored knights while being attacked by flying arrows by the longbowman? Well here are the answers There were a wide variety of weapons in the middle ages, one of which was the club. The club was mainly used to crush bones or fracture them. It was made of a light wood with a metal tip on the end and usually had spikes on them to inflict more damage. The club is the first melee weapon ever made and started in the Stone Age to kill deer or wild boar. As ages went by the club became less effective. After about 1400 A.D. the club was very rare to find in battle. What was interesting about the club is that it could easily be changed into a short-handled ax. All they had to do was either cut or take off the tip of the club and attach a sharp blade. The reason they sometimes changed the club into a short-handled ax, was because it could be throw n easily and inflict some pain, where the club when thrown, it was hard to throw and it inflicted little pain and damage. Another very useful weapon was the spear. The spear was a skirmisherââ¬â¢s best friend. A skirmisher was a soldier that carried around a bag full of spears. To keep from giving too much weight, they made the spear for the skirmishers with very lightweight wood, and a small pointy spearhead. The skirmisherââ¬â¢s job was to take the spears and throw them at a long range. The difference between a bow and arrow and a spear was that the spear could easily be turned into a melee weapon. In fact, when a skirmisher had only one spear left, he took the spear, left the bag, and went melee style and went into the battle. The first spear was simply a sharpened rock tied onto a long stick, which was in the Stone Age, and wasnââ¬â¢t used for killing people; it was used to kill animals for food, usually. Probably the most common weapon, was the sword. All kinds of swords, the standard sword, which was just a regular sword, the dagger, or knife, yes it was a type of sword, mainly a backup sword used if a soldierââ¬â¢s weapon was dropped, and the great sword, which was a huge sword that can only be used in control if the soldier used two hands.
Sunday, September 1, 2019
Deconstructing the Sphinx of Fashion Essay
Clad in drapes and flowing fabric, with enough chutzpah to sport a turban that had become her signature, Madame Gres had always been an icon of fashion and art. With a stellar list of clients and muses, from noble royals such as Princess Grace of Monaco, Princess Matilda of Greece, the Duchess of Windsor and the Duchess of Deterling, among others; to film celebrities and then-socialites Marlene Dietrich, Jacqueline Kennedy-Onassis, Barbra Streisand, and Greta Garbo. Such was her presence and inimitable style that many would say, unwittingly, that she was more Garbo than Garbo herself (www. parfumsgres. com). Full of passion and fashion, and shrouded with mystery. Even her birth was mysterious. Many documented sources indicate that she was born to a bourgeois family, a fact that was only established after many years. Her birth on November 30, 1903 gave her the name Germaine Emilie Krebs, hardly one suitable for a would-be legendary fashion designer. To keep historical accounts of her personal life consistently vague, not much is known about her early yearsââ¬âuntil she eventually launched her fashion career sometime after the Wall Street plunge in 1930, an unfortunate time to do so as the market was no longer viable for luxury products. Some reports have it that she started as a sculptor, but was never quite successful at itââ¬âmaking her decide to change career paths (Mendoza). It is also said that she soon opened a couture house under the name Alix, yet others have mentioned that she was only but an employee of a small-time couturier named Julie Barton. However, that time was adjudged to be the best for a woman to be working in fashion, since the most well-known namesââ¬âLanvin, Vionnet and Chanelââ¬âmade themselves known during the period (www. telegraph. co. uk). She later married the Russian painter Serge Czerefkov, and used the anagram of his name as hers, exactly the way he would sign his artwork. But the marriage laster only for a year or less, for Czerefkov traveled all the way from France to Polynesia, and never returned. Alix Gres, as Germaine Emilie Krebs then called herself, forged on and indulged herself in the one passion that would etch her name in historyââ¬âfabrics and fashion. Taking inspiration from one of her design models, Madeleine Vionnet (Chang, 2005), the Grecian silhouette was what art and fashion historians would attach to the Gres name. Madame Gres viewed the clothes she created as works of art, and fashioned a manner of construction and style that is uniquely hersââ¬âdraping. This technique, as opposed to tailoring, entailed sculpting yards of fabric directly onto the bodies of her models. producing her acclaimed signature, the flowing jersey dress. Gresââ¬â¢ distinct style emulated the classic Hellenic dress, which called for what is known as wet-draperyââ¬âthe manner of fabric contortion through animated folds, that ultimately reveals the shape and contour of the human body (Koda, 200-). Clearly, it is Gresââ¬â¢ background in sculpture that influenced her choice of couture, that also brought her to use other like fabrics such as chiffon and crepe. Her lines were always simple and clean, yet completely feminine and elegant. Drama was her goal, and unlike most designers in the 1940s and 50s, Madame Gres never relied on structure and stiff support to create her silhouettes, no matter how much complexity and angular shapes were in fashion at the time. She also used heavy fabric and paper taffeta to achieve her signature flowing designs, which achieved more impact than expected, considering its basic construction. The dresses and gowns of Madame Gres were always lauded for their almost-opposing characteristics of being timeless and modern at the same time, yet in truth, they were innovative and evolved constantly. During the 1940s, in the aftermath of World War II, many restrictions were put in place and Madame Gresââ¬â¢ classic Grecian fashions could no longer be produced as often and as much as she used to. Because of this, she focused on perfecting another technique called fluting, which is a detailed, highly-concentrated version of the regular pleating. thus, when fabric became widely available once more, Madame Gres easily incorporated this new standard of workmanship into her classic Greek-inspired creations. In 1958, Madame Gres went on a journey to India, where she discovered another significant influence on her art. It was here that she took a liking for the countryââ¬â¢s native saris and caftans, which she rightly surmised would perfectly blend with her already-established smooth, flowing style. Fashion journals all over the world showcased Gresââ¬â¢ new collections that included pajama pants, which she wisely combined with the trends at the timeââ¬âeven with miniskirts and the ubiquitous hot pant (The Museum at Fit). It was also during this trip that Madame Gres took inspiration for a perfume line she named Cabochard, quite apt for the launch of her new company called Parfums Gres, The 1970s and 80s proved to be Madame Gresââ¬â¢ most memorable years, for at this time she was offered numerous titles and recognition. In 1974, she became President of La Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, as well as recipient of the De dââ¬â¢Or de la Haute Couture. Later, in 1980, Madame Gres was named ââ¬Å"The most elegant woman in the worldâ⬠, and, for her unmatched contribution to French culture, she was given the honor of being a ââ¬Å"Chevalier de la Legion dââ¬â¢Honneurâ⬠. Also, while she constantly refused to delve into pret-a-porter, it was during the same year that she launched Gres Boutiqueââ¬âher first collection. Her colleagues also agreed with all the accolades given her, particularly her sense of design and classic style. The popular designer Bill Blass was asked for his opinion, on the statement that fashion is an art. He said no, it is a craft, unless it is done by Balenciaga or Madame Gres. For further validation of the womanââ¬â¢s talents, 1988ââ¬â¢s Vogue History of 20th Century Fashion named her ââ¬Å"the greatest living couturierâ⬠(www. parfumsgres. com). But not everything in Madame Gresââ¬â¢ life was as pristine and flowing as the dresses she designed, or the celebrated couture house that was at par with the worldââ¬â¢s best (Cocks, 1986). Like many successful celebrities, she had her own share of negative publicity and vicious tales. Stories have been told about her indifference to the past and the accomplishments she made, even as she would travel the world just t open numerous boutiques to her name. While the legendary Vogue editor, Diana Vreeland, would comment that Madame Gres had the best address in Paris (Trow, 1980), Gres was also compared to Carmel Snow, longtime editor of Harperââ¬â¢s Bazaar, on their both being self-centered and uninterested in nothing but themselves (Horyn, 2005). But what was most disturbing and mysterious about Madame Gresââ¬â¢ life is her death in 1993. For over a year, her only daughter Ann kept the fact hidden from fashion journalists and her motherââ¬â¢s colleagues. Ann would even respond to queries sent about Madame Gres, indicating her motherââ¬â¢s appreciation of the gestures, as evidenced by the time when Yves Saint Laurent gave due praise to the Gres prospective of the Metropolitan Museum of Art. Ann sent back a note detailing how Madame Gres was greatly touched and appreciative, even including a personal account of her motherââ¬â¢s humble beginnings, told in an uncomfortably personal tone. In truth, Madame Gres was already whiling away her remaining days at a nursing home in the South of France. She was believed to have been either 89 or 94 years old. The fashion society in Paris were all baffled by this turn of events, which they were completely uninformed about. She continued to hold the position of honorary president of the Chambre Syndicale, because no one knew of her her demise. Apparently, correspondence was sent regularly to Ann Gres, which she refused to answer. Ann Gres was adamant about keeping her motherââ¬â¢s death a secret. She believed that was how Madame Gres would have wanted things to beââ¬âmysterious and secretive. She disclosed, though, that their family was in dire need of funds and other resources, that she had not been able to even afford a decent tombstone befitting her legendary mother. Ann also lambasted her motherââ¬â¢s so-called friends, whom she declared to have never even inquired about Madame Gresââ¬â¢ condition. Sadly, this was how things turned out for the once-prosperous fashion icon. Her business, with debts and failures mounting, was sold to Bernard Tapie, an American businessman. After two years, the French group Estorel took over the company, only to go bankrupt in 1987. Eventually, a Japanese investment group called Yagi bought the Madame Gres name for $2 million in 1988, but the contract did not include royalty payments for the designer. (Deeney, 1994). The same fate happened to her perfume company, which was acquired by Lamotte Taurelle, a distribution company, that later sold it to a finance company subsdiary. The licenses were soon purchased by The Escada Group, which in turn sold in 2001 to Silvio Denz (www. parfumsgres. com). To this day, much of Madame Gresââ¬â¢ influences live on, and her existing pieces are now proverbial treasures. Auctions of her creations command the highest prices, as they are true showcases of a womanââ¬â¢s lifelong passion for the art of fashion. Draping is a skill many of todayââ¬â¢s young designers try to emulate, an example of which is a noted finalist in Season Four of Project Runway, a hugely popular American reality show documenting the challenges of over a dozen young designers. Rami Kashou, who won second place, is known for his talent in drapingââ¬âwhich may probably tell of his knowledge of Madame Gresââ¬â¢ legacy. It is just, however, completely mind-boggling how many accounts and stories lead to the conclusion that Madame Gres and her incredible talent would be the source of envy of her only child. Though, as they say, Ann Gres despised her mother for that known fact, But it is correct to say that Madame Gres has carved her name and design philosophy into the annals of global fashion. And just like her ethereal creations that had been consistently singular and distinct, the life of Madame Alix Gres, or Germaine Emilie Krebs, will always be mysterious and legendary. Works Cited Cocks, Jay. ââ¬Å"An Elegant Legacy Comes Aliveâ⬠. Time Magazine, February 3, 1986. Trow, George W. S. The Talk of the Town. ââ¬Å"Workâ⬠. The New Yorker, September 29, 1980. Horyn, Cathy. ââ¬Å"Before There Was Vreelandâ⬠. The New York Times, December 4, 2005. Deeney, Godfrey. ââ¬Å"The Strange, Secret Death of Madame Gresâ⬠. Womenââ¬â¢s Wear Daily, December 14, 1994. Koda, Harold. ââ¬Å"Classical Art and Modern Dressâ⬠. Timeline of Art History. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 200-. The Costume Institute. ââ¬Å"Costume in the Metropolitan Museum of Artâ⬠. Timeline of Art History. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 200-. Alix Gres: An Exceptional Couturier. http://www. telegraph. co. uk/fashion/main. jhtml? xml=/fashion/2008/02/17/st_ madamegres. xml Biography. http://www. parfumsgres. com/biography. html Chang, Lia. Cut and Construction: The Foundations of Fashion, 2005. http://www. asianconnections. com/a/? article_id=594 Mendoza, Sandra. Alix Gres (1903-1993). http://www. vintagefashionguild. org/content/view/664/111/ The Museum at Fit. The Life and Career of Madame Gres. http://www3. fitnyc. edu/museum/gres/lifeandcareer. htm
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)